Caribbean Cruise November 2004

 

Last updated: December 10, 2004

A cruise ship is basically a portable hotel. They all have the same stuff: rooms, restaurants, pools, theater, casino (more later), etc.

October 17: Celebrity Galaxy docked in Cozumel

We happened to see the Galaxy in Cozumel when we were there for a week in October with Mary and Joe.

November 16: On the Galaxy docked in Cozumel

Medium to large cruise ships are designed to fit through the Panama Canal locks. Each lock is 1000 feet long by 110 feet wide, so the ships are about 900 feet long by 100 feet wide, and the usual way to make them larger is to make them taller.

This shot is from the top deck on our ship, the Celebrity Galaxy. The ship on the left is a smaller Celebrity ship and the other one is a larger Princess ship, the Grand Princess. That top aft structure isn’t a spoiler; it’s probably a bar or night club.

Another way to make them bigger, and still fit through the canal locks, is to make the upper decks wider. Our cabin was on deck 10; decks 11 and 12 are 8 or 10 feet wider on both sides.

An aside: The Queens (Mary and Elizabeth) aren’t cruise ships; they’re ocean liners, basically designed for all-weather North Atlantic crossings. The new Queen Mary 2 is 30 or 50 feet too wide for the Panama Canal. The original Queen Mary is docked in Long Beach; the upper decks are operated as a hotel, restaurants and shops. During WWII it was a troop transport. At night in the Indian Ocean, running with lights off, a cruiser escort ship zigged when it should have zagged. The Queen Mary cut it in half, all hands lost.

Back to our cruise.

Customs and immigration: Galveston only.

Security: Every time you enter the ship you and your bags have to go through metal detectors.

November 13: Sea Pass

The Sea Pass: The ship issues a credit-card style cabin key with both a magnetic strip and a bar code on the back. The cabin key ID is unique, so you get to keep it as a souvenir.

Visas: None. The cabin key is used in foreign countries as a visa and to record departure from the ship and return. They know exactly who’s late getting back, usually because they forgot about a time zone change. If you miss the boat, it’s your responsibility to catch it at its next stop. There are always a few people getting on or off at intermediate stops: mostly crew and entertainers.

Cash: The ship is cashless, except the casino. The price includes all meals, even room service, but all extras are charged with the cabin key. Extras include drinks (even water) served at bars or pools, spa services, shore excursions, on-board classes, etc. The casino is US currency only; the casino will advance cash against the cabin key.

Seasick: Generally, the pitching and rolling is just part of the cruise package. One night I didn’t feel good enough for dinner and another night Mischel, but most people seemed ok all the time. Once home, the first time I took a shower it seemed weird because the shower wasn’t moving. Also, I’d wake up whenever the ship docked, because it stopped moving.

An aside: My stepfather Stanley (my mother’s middle husband) worked on ships for decades. He said that whenever you encounter a “sea” rougher than one you’ve experienced before, you get seasick, but then you’ll be ok the next time. So you develop a sort of immunity.

November 13 to 25: Cruise route

Day 1

Galveston, TX

Day 2

At sea; formal night

Day 3

Cozumel, Mexico

Day 4

Costa Maya, Mexico

Day 5

At sea; formal night

Day 6

Panama

Day 7

Costa Rica

Day 8

At sea

Day 9

Montego Bay, Jamaica

Day 10

Cayman Islands, BWI

Day 11

At sea; formal night

Day 12

At sea

Day 13

Galveston, TX



Day 1, Saturday, November 13

Galveston, getting on board.

We flew from San Jose to Houston, and took a bus to the ship. That was a disaster – the busses were over an hour late.

Day 1: Our cabin

But, when we got on board and found our cabin, someone, probably the travel agent Cathy Licardo, had it decorated for Mischel’s November 11 birthday.

The cabin has a bed, closet, bathroom (shower), TV and minibar, desk and chair, sitting chair, and a little balcony.

Day 1: Our cabin

Gerry visiting our cabin.

Day 1: Boat drill

Immediately after leaving port, they have a boat drill. The larger boats hold over 100 people and are used to “tender” people ashore in ports with no place to dock. I’d like one of the double-hulled ones: they’re fast and stable.

What you don’t like to see is the hand holds on the bottom of a lifeboat (like the front one).

Day 2, Sunday, November 14

At sea.

Day 2: First formal dinner

Despite prior arrangements, the first day we weren’t seated with Gerry and Edna Ott, but the second day we moved to their table.

The reserved seating is for dinner in the deck 6-7 dining room. We had the late (8:30) seating. You don’t have to have dinner there: there are a couple small restaurants (Italian and Sushi) behind the café on deck 11.

Breakfast and lunch were usually cafeteria style (five lines) in the café on deck 11, although we had breakfast in the dining room a couple times, and you can have any meal delivered to your cabin.

Day 3, Monday, November 15

Cozumel.

Been there, done that.

Took a cab downtown and shopped.

Day 4, Tuesday, November 16

Costa Maya.

Originally, Day 4 was supposed to be Belize, on the Yucatan peninsula just south of Mexico. Belize got cancelled because of “political trouble”, which we found out was that they raised the rates for ships to stop there.

We weren’t looking forward to Belize. It’s a poor country, and the only reason we heard of to go there is to take a boat and snorkel or scuba the offshore reef. Sour grapes.

Anyway… Mexico is opening a new tourist area on the Yucatan peninsula called Costa Maya. They bill it as the new Cancun.

Day 4: Tender to Costa Maya

No dock, so tenders were used.

The overhang is the bottom of deck 11.

Day 4: Mayan temple

The main attraction is some newly restored Mayan ruins. This is the largest of several temples.

Interesting, but quite a ways inland, an hour and 20 or 30 minute bus ride.

Day 5, Wednesday, November 17

At sea, heading for Panama.

Day 5: Sunset

This picture enlarges quite well. I use it for background on my computer screen.

Day 5: Martini bar

Decks 5 to 7, looking to port. The aft elevators and the dining room are on the left.

“Port” and “left” both have four letters, so “starboard” must be right.

Day 5: Second formal night

Day 5: Mischel and Edna

Day 5: Mischel at our cabin

Our cabin was starboard, next to the forward elevators on the left, stairs on the right.

Day 6, Thursday, November 18

Panama.

Day 6: Daybreak in Panama

Day 6: Approaching the first lock

The picture shows Mischel in the deck 12 forward observation lounge. The ship is moving at 1 or 2 mph.

Day 6: In the second lock

Day 6: In the third lock

It only took an hour to get through the three locks between the Caribbean and Lake Gatun.

Day 6: Excursion groups

Mischel’s on the left.

This time the excursion groups assembled in the theater (forward). This theater is the showroom and holds about 800 people; there’s also a smaller movie theater for maybe 200 people.

Day 6: Theater, from row 1

Another view of the theater, about 100 ft. wide.

Day 6: Tenders to shore

Then we tendered to shore across Lake Gatun.

Day 6: Ships on Lake Gatun

A Holland America cruise ship and an empty freighter on Lake Gatun.

Day 6: Our ship, from shore

From the dock, we walked to the train.

Panama was the only stop where you couldn’t get off the ship on your own. Everyone had to be part of a tour group. The Canal Zone still has a security perimeter.

Day 6: On the Panama Train

Our guide, in the true Panama hat, and the train attendants about to sing us a song. They served drinks; their English was marginal.

The train goes along Lake Gatun from Colon, on the Caribbean side, for about 40 miles, almost to the Pacific end of the canal. To do that in an hour, the train must have been doing 60.

In the morning and evening, the train carries commuters from the better homes on the Pacific side to their jobs in Colon. It also carries freight containers both directions.

Then we took a tour bus to the Pacific end of the canal… actually to the end of a chain of islands connected by a causeway built with debris from the canal construction.

Day 6: Panama City

Mischel, with Panama City in the background.

Footnote: they use the term "Panama" the way we use "New York", implying the city.

After a stop for souvenir shopping, the tour bus took us back to the ship, docked in Colon.

Day 6: The greeters

But first, more souvenir shopping, at the dock in Colon.

Day 6: Celebrity (Galaxy) at Colon

Then, back on the ship.

Day 7, Friday, November 19

Costa Rica.

Day 7: Costa Rican rain forest

We took a bus to a private rain forest adjacent to a national park. The bus ride was over an hour.

Day 7: Getting on the tram

You take a tram through the rain forest.

The tram cars are welded to the cable, so whenever people get on or off, the whole system stops. But it lets you view things while stopped.

Day 7: View from the tram

The tram runs out and back through a vertical slice of the rain forest about 8 or 10 feet wide, with a service walkway on the ground, so it's not exactly non-intrusive.

Day 7: Spider #2, about actual size

We saw lots of weird plants: tree ferns, etc., but nothing on four legs. Supposedly they're nocturnal.

We saw some leaf cutter ants at work, just like in the documentaries, but that was about it for insects. Strange. No mosquitos, centipedes, nada. No cobwebs in the rain forest. No spiders except one on a tram pole and another by the tourist buildings. Photo of spider #2 above; (s)he's 2 1/2 or 3 inches across. Bottom side, I think. They said there were no termites because of the altitude, all of 1400 feet.

Heard one parrot, saw some little birds. One butterfly, blue.

Day 7: Waiting for the bus back

Day 7: Souvenir hunting

Day 7: Returning to the ship

Day 7: Breakers in the pool

This is the midships pool, with water down to the bottom on the left, and water splashing out on the right. The size of the pool made for a harmonic with the ship’s pitching.

That was a rough night, apparently because of a storm near Venezuela. I guess that was the night I skipped dinner.

Day 8, Saturday, November 20

At sea.

Day 7: At sea

Played Men vs. Women trivia. Saw a freighter. Lost money in the casino. Ate too much.

An aside: The British member of the Mens trivia team, who didn’t know that people from Oxford are called Oxians, sang “Wild Thing” rather convincingly at Karaoke one night.

Day 9, Sunday, November 21

Montego Bay, Jamaica.

Day 9: Mischel in our cabin (1)

Docked at Montego Bay, the rich end of Jamaica. No cruise ships stop at Kingston.

Day 9: Mischel in our cabin (2)

Day 9: Mischel in our cabin (3)

Right is forward. She’s in the middle, three decks above the stern of the second lifeboat.

Our shore excursion was to see the Green House, one of the few mansions not burned down during the slave revolt. The other one restored is Rose Hall, the center of a huge development with a hotel, golf, shopping and residences.

Day 9: Jamaica: Green House tour (1)

Jerry, checking out a metal disk music box, with Edna, Mischel and our guide.

Day 9: Jamaica: Green House tour (2)

Jerry, checking out a metal cylinder music box.

Day 9: Jamaica: Green House tour (3)

The balcony. Inside there was a lot of fancy furniture and decorations. The house was owned by the Bronte family and used for entertainment.

Day 9: Jamaica: lunch

Our driver picked The Pelican for lunch. They don’t serve pelican. I had a local favorite: stewed goat.

If you look closely, you can see our ship in the distance, between the tree and the blue sign:

Day 9: Jamaica: Galaxy

Day 10, Monday, November 22

Cayman Islands.

It’s not far from Montego Bay to the Cayman Islands. The ship times stops so they dock just after dawn and leave just before dusk. The time is adjusted by cruise speed: 8 to 16 mph if they have lots of time, 24 mph if they’re in a hurry.

I brought my hand-held GPS to check on them. At one point, both the Belize (replaced by Costa Maya) and Cayman Islands (reinstated) stops were going to be days at sea, and I wanted to check if they were just driving in circles. During the day, you can tell by the sun, and at night you’re sleeping, so the GPS didn’t prove anything. However, near the Equator it was easy to get 6 or 8 satellites, instead of 3 or 4 at home.

We tendered ashore for the “Swim with the Sting Rays and Snorkel the Reef” shore excursion.

Day 10: Roof damage

Hurricane Ivan caused enough damage that cruise ships couldn’t stop there for a while. Most buildings had roof damage; some had no roofs; some were condemned.

Day 10: Sting Rays from boat

This is Sting Ray City. The water is about 12 feet deep. Fishermen used to clean their catches there. Now the rays are fed by tourist boats.

Day 10: Sting Rays from water

The stinger is a couple inches long, usually in a sheath about halfway along the tail. It’s used for protection when the ray is hiding or sleeping under the sand.

Day 10: Sting Ray and John

Mischel had the underwater camera, so there are no pictures of her. I felt one held by a guide; it feels like squid; that’s the bait to get them to the boat.

The guides apologized for the sea being too rough. For one thing, only about 10 rays showed up, instead of the usual 100. For another, we couldn’t snorkel the reef, for which they refunded part of the money.

Day 10: Hell

Here’s Mischel with Satan. Hell was named by some early explorer who hadn’t seen volcanic rock. It’s the ultimate tourist trap, where you send “I’ve been to Hell and back” postcards.

Day 10: Carved watermelon

Sometimes the cooks have ice or fruit carving demonstrations.

The dinner of the last night they have a parade through the dining room, when they serve a flaming dessert, like Baked Alaska or Cherries Jubilee. However, the fire regulations must be stricter now; we had cold Baked Alaska.

Day 10: Dining room

This is a view from the second deck of the dining room, looking aft.

Day 11, Tuesday, November 23

At sea; third formal night.

Day 11: Flying fish

Saw flying fish avoiding our bow wave. Usually one or a few, sometimes a group of 10 or 20. The larger ones were about a foot long.

The fish come in different sizes: the little ones could fly 10 or 20 feet, the adults could make it 100 or 200 feet by beating their fins like crazy and skipping across the tops of waves.

Then I saw something brown underwater, and soon saw something breaking the surface near the stern. I'm guessing they were porpoises playing in the wake while not eating flying fish.

With about a half second delay between pushing the button and the digital camera taking a picture, I couldn't get a shot of a porpoise out of water.

Some guy said he saw the fish all morning, so that would make the school be about 50 plus miles across.

Day 11: Mischel won!

Mischel won the blackjack tournament, beating five obnoxious Texans at the final table. Luck.

Day 11: John won!

I hit a dollar slot. Skill.

Day 12, Wednesday, November 24

At sea; talent contest.

Day 12: Talent contestants

Rather than offend anyone, everyone won. Gerry and Edna are in red and white. Gerry accompanied himself, Edna, our table-mate The Reverend Kay Studley, and some guy.

Day 12: Sunset over the Gulf

Another cruise tradition, that we skipped, is the fancy dessert buffet the night before getting off. That’s done to placate people who just finished packing, put their luggage in the hallway, and have only their shore clothes to wear.

Day 13, Thursday, November 25

Galveston; Thanksgiving.

Day 13: Luggage off, supplies on

We took the bus back to Houston.

A weird problem was getting on the right bus. We were renting a car, not taking a flight. The guy directing people to busses asked “Which airline?” Mischel said “Hertz”. The guy gave a blank stare and asked “Which airline?” Mischel said “Continental” and we got on a bus.

Then, Hertz messed up the reservation, so we got a Jaguar S-Type instead of a Lincoln LS. Later, they tried to bill us for both of them.

The GPS system didn’t have the O’Nan’s subdivision, so we called for directions when we got to Austin. We got there late afternoon.

Tia had Thanksgiving dinner Friday afternoon, with Ron’s parents and us.

Round Rock, TX: Chris and us

We flew back from Austin (via Houston), getting home late Monday night, November 29, tired.